6 Ways to Prepare for the Bangs and Booms Starting NOW

Is your dog scared of fireworks? Don’t wait until the holiday hits. Even with just a couple days’ lead time, you can make a plan and take action now to help your dog be a bit less afraid of the unpredictable scary sounds of fireworks, firecrackers, whistles, and even guns.

Get Ready

Here are some things you can do starting today or tomorrow.

  1. Check into medications. If your dog gets very anxious about noises and you have never talked to your vet about it, do so now. He or she may be able to prescribe something to help. And if you can’t get in before the holiday, do your best with some of the other ideas here to get through it and call your vet as soon as you can. This is a long-term problem. Sound phobias tend to get worse and are not something to be taken lightly.
  2. Countercondition to noises. Get some great treats and start carrying them around. Whenever there is any kind of sudden or startling noise, including stray bangs and booms as people start to test their noisemakers, rain treats down on your dog. Use those special treats only for noises; don’t pass them out for nice behavior (use something else for that!), and don’t ask for any particular behavior from your dog when the noise occurs. Just give the special treats.

    You may wonder why I am not recommending buying an app, CD, or YouTube video with fireworks sounds to “practice” with. Performing desensitization/counterconditioning with sounds is tricky.  People who haven’t done DS/CC before run a real risk of scaring their dogs further instead of helping them. This is why I am suggesting this method, which uses environmental noises that are happening anyway. Save the formal training for after the holiday, when you can keep your dog safe from accidental exposures to the sound.
  3. Create a safe place. Make (or adapt) a safe place for your dog. Keep in mind that the flashes of light that come with big fireworks displays can be scary too, so consider a method to temporarily darken any windows nearby. Also, low-frequency booms can’t be “soundproofed” against except with materials that are much too big to use inside a house. Get the best protection you can in a basement or your most internal room. Despite the marketing claims, dog crates with walls a few inches thick can’t dampen low-frequency sounds to an effective degree. But if a crate is your dog’s safe place, that’s great. Here are some examples of safe places for dogs.
  4. Play sound or music. Experiment with sound masking to find out what is most helpful for your situation. Try some kind of recorded white or brown noise, natural noise, or music to mask the pops and booms. (Even a noisy food toy can be helpful.) This approach is evidence-based and is called sound masking.

    And here’s a tip: the lower the frequencies included in the masking or music, the better it can hide those low-pitched booms (Kinsler, Frey, Coppens, & Sanders, 1999, p.318–320). So if your dogs are already habituated to pounding rock music or some other music with a lot of bass or percussion, play it! And play it on your best sound system so as to include those low frequencies. It can mask some of the scary noises coming from outside your house more effectively. Taiko drumming is great if your dogs are accustomed to it. You can buy a few songs and loop them or find some on YouTube. But be absolutely certain that the music itself doesn’t scare your dogs first. If they are already sensitive to booms, it probably will.

    Household appliances can help. Some floor fans hit fairly low frequencies and can be helpful. You can run the dryer (no heat) with a pair of sports shoes in it for some booms that will probably be familiar and not scary. You’ll need to find the line of best fit for your dogs.

    The perfect resource for some households is the Bang-Dog Playlist from Triplet Noir Studios. These are heavy metal selections (be aware that some of the language is not family-friendly). Before anyone mentions it: heavy metal has not ranked well in the dogs and music studies, tending to make shelter dogs more agitated. That’s not surprising. But if you play it already and your dogs are fine with it, they are habituated. In that case, this music could be the very thing for you and your dog.
  5. Practice going out. Make a plan for taking your dog out to potty. Do you know when the noise is usually at its worst and can you work around that? Are your fences and/or leash and harness secure? If your dog is not used to being on-leash for potty time, start practicing now, including getting the harness on. Dogs who are usually sedate have been known to panic and run off on noisy holidays. Don’t let that happen.  Keep your gates locked, your dogs’ ID tags on, and put some redundancy into your safety system.
  6. Comfort your dog if that helps. LOSE that idea that there’s something wrong with comforting your dog, if that’s what your dog wants. Helping a dog through a tough time is not “coddling.” Assess what is most helpful to your dog: a cuddle, food or a fun game after every scary noise, some lap time, sweet talk, being in their crate with a food toy, or hiding by themselves in a secluded place. Then help them do it. If they want to hide, let them.
The best part of thunderstorms: spray cheese!
The best part of noisy holidays for Summer was spray cheese!

Check out more resources and tips on my page “You Can’t Reinforce Fear.

Another good resource is this article by Val Hughes: My Dog Fears Fireworks and Thunderstorms—What Should I Do To Help? Her article has suggestions for both long- and short-term solutions.

Thanks for reading!

© Eileen Anderson 2015                                                          

4 thoughts on “6 Ways to Prepare for the Bangs and Booms Starting NOW

    1. I am familiar with the app mentioned.

      See #2 above as to why I don’t recommend using any app in this particular situation, five days before a noisy holiday. Also, stay tuned for a future article about the ways using recordings for desensitization and counterconditioning can backfire. It can be done, but there are so many things that can go wrong, having to do with both behavior science and physics.

      I write to a wide audience. I don’t expect all my readers to be able to distinguish between mild stranger danger reactivity, an acoustic startle reflex, or a true sound phobia. The app you mentioned would be disastrous to use as directed for a truly sound phobic dog. It would make many of them worse.

      I’m in favor of automation. There are big advantages, including that devices randomize a lot better than humans, and they aren’t creating more predictors of the scary thing. I think technology will help us in the future. We aren’t there yet. I’ll be more interested when the app integrates a treat dispenser, so it isn’t relying on desensitization alone. But that’s not the only problem.

      I will never recommend any app that claims as part of its marketing that it can “cure” sound phobia. Canine sound phobia is a clinically diagnosed medical condition. Repeated exposures of the scary sounds by a well-meaning owner will have a good chance of making the dog worse. And for dogs who are phobic of high-pitched beeps and whistles, the standard advice of lowering the volume doesn’t apply. Those noises can be even scarier at levels of low audibility. I often wonder if the makers of these apps and other gizmos have ever seen a truly sound phobic dog. For instance, a dog who goes into three hours of near-catatonia from one exposure to a low-volume sound, and whose anxiety level is heightened for several days afterward. They might be more careful with their language if they had.

      I will support an app that puts the recommendation to consult with a veterinarian familiar with behavior issues or a vet behaviorist **before** the other marketing language, instead of as a footnote. It would also need to recommend that the app be used by a knowledgeable trainer as part of a complete training plan.

  1. Here’s our belated New Year’s Eve report for Obi (9 year old border collie) and his sidekick Rowan (2 year old BC).

    We practiced throwing Thunder Parties for a couple of months last summer, following Amy Cooper’s protocol through her Fenzi Dogs Sports Academy class. Then, being typical humans, we stopped practicing once thunder season ended. On New Year’s Eve, there were some booms in the evening leading up to midnight and a short barrage. The first one took us by surprise, and both dogs wilted. Then we recovered, gasped, exclaimed “Thunder Party!”, and started food and toy play. Amazingly, the dogs responded instantly and joined enthusiastically in the play.

    Why did it work? Per your long-standing recommendation, we didn’t start trying to overcome sound sensitivity a day or two before the holiday, but months in advance. We had a good teacher who used science-based methods. And the serious counter-conditioning we did stuck with the dogs despite several months of not practicing.

    We also (thanks to your timely reminder) had our short-term plans in place: safe spaces, music, and a fan going in the bedroom. We had plenty of comfort available, but the dogs didn’t really need it, though they were happy with extra snuggles.

    We really appreciate your biannual reminders to help our sound-sensitive dogs survive the holidays.

    1. Thanks, Chris, and sorry for my very tardy response. What a great success story!


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