Does a Soft Mouth Mean My Dog Is Relaxed?

Does a Soft Mouth Mean My Dog Is Relaxed?

A collage of two photos. On the left we see a black and rust colored hound mix gently accepting a treat from a human's hand. 

On the right we see a white and bron hound mix with his mouth wide open and the whites of his eyes showing accepting a treat. He looks like he is about to bite the hand.
Zani is taking a treat gently. Can you tell what’s happening with her? How about with Lewis? See below.

Most of us have experienced what it feels like when a dog takes treats like a shark. We probably know some situations in which our dogs do that and what it might mean. But what about when a dog takes a treat extra gently?

I’ve been writing about dog body language since I began this blog. I recently realized that treat-taking falls under body language. Sometimes we feel it more than we see it, but it’s still behavior that can give us a clue to a dog’s emotional state.

I have not seen this discussed much. Usually I see the binary question: Will the dog take food or not? This is followed by a conclusion about whether the dog is “over threshold.” But there is an entire spectrum of nuance we are missing if we limit ourselves to a yes or no answer. I questioned the binary model years ago and discussed it in this post. Now I’m going a step further.

If a dog suddenly seizes treats, or suddenly takes them gingerly, we need to pay attention! And the latter is harder to notice, since we are less likely to take note when the treat-taking doesn’t hurt us.

Soft Mouth and Hard Mouth Can Be General Labels

First, some discussion of terminology. Some people will say that their dog has a “soft mouth” or a “hard mouth” in general. A soft mouth is desirable in working retrievers because a dog’s gentle pick up and carry leaves the bird intact. A hard mouth is undesirable in most situations. I asked a friend who does bite sports about it, since I figured it might be a point of discussion there. They said their colleagues would be more likely to say a dog has a “firm grip” on the bite sleeve than a hard mouth (and a firm grip is a good thing).

So I’m not talking about these qualities: how a dog carries something or how they bite on cue. I’m also not talking about how hard dogs bite people or animals in incidents of aggression.

I’m talking about how dogs take treats, how dogs take food from our hands. Also, I’m using the terms situationally, not as general labels. Because this behavior varies! How a dog takes a treat can tell us a lot about what’s going on with them in that moment.

Let’s Operationalize the Terms

Here are the characteristics I associate with “hard mouth” and “soft mouth.”

Hard Mouth

  • The dog’s teeth close on my fingers when she takes the treat enough that it is uncomfortable. I.e., she bites me.
  • The dog may leap or snatch at my hand as she closes her teeth hard. In this case there is not only uncomfortable pressure, but her teeth drag on my hand.

Soft Mouth

  • The dog stops short of my hand and takes the treat with her tongue or lips.
  • The dog puts her mouth around my fingers, but I feel her teeth only in a very minor, glancing way.

I can use this information!

How Clara Takes Treats

A tan dogs with a black nose looks up at the camera as she nibbles watermelon from a rind
Not relevant, but so cute!

Clara is a “stresser-upper.” When she gets aroused and agitated, she takes treats harder, plain and simple. But also, faster movement can do it. Practicing walking on leash with her was very painful when she was younger because all it took was the motion of walking and she took treats harder. I guess we could still classify that as arousal.

Also, she takes treats harder if I give them to her more quickly. My bad; it’s usually because I am trying to get a treat in before she moves. (Yes, I know about that thing called the clicker, haha.) Jerking one’s hand back to protect fingers can start a vicious circle of the dog snapping to get the treat, and Clara and I have gone down that road in the past, too.

Finally, she is more bitey when I offer a high value treat, but that says more about the treat than her emotional state at the moment. That’s a typical response for a lot of dogs.

How Zani Took Treats

Zani was the inspiration for this post. Because Zani, who had a soft mouth most of the time, got a softer mouth when she got upset. When she was bothered by something, she tended to check out rather than act out.

So if we were moving along, say, on a walk, and suddenly she took a treat softly, I would check on her. She was usually nervous about something. Here is the order of Zani’s types of treat-taking, from an emotional state of normal to fearful.

  1. Takes treat normally; I may feel her teeth but only passing by.
  2. Takes treat softly and gingerly; uses just her lips and tongue.
  3. Won’t take treat from my hand; usually turns her head away. But will take it if I put it on the ground.
  4. Won’t take treat at all.

I find the third condition fascinating. But it tracks for Zani, who was sensitive to spatial and social pressure.

In the image at the top, Zani was taking a treat in her normal gentle way. She was not upset, to my knowledge.

In the video embedded in this blog post, I show Zani refusing treats on a walk. I assessed that she was seeking other reinforcement. I still perceive that to be true, but on looking at the video, I see some anxiety, too. Zani went through some difficult periods in her life when she was very anxious, so it may have been her baseline then. It stands out to me now.

How Lewis Takes Treats

A white dog with brown on his face and ears is lying on a bed with his mouth open so his lower canine are visible. He is playing.

The aption "Teefs" refers to teeth.
Teefs

Lewis both stresses up and stresses down with his treat taking.

He can get sharky when he’s aroused, and will take treats harder when there is another dog close by, because he’s guardy. But he takes treats more softly when worried and has a progression like Zani’s.

His most interesting behavior, though, isn’t easily classified. Sometimes when there is movement involved, he will take my entire hand in his mouth, but he doesn’t always close his teeth hard. So the photo comparison at the top is not showing him biting me (or about to bite me). He was enveloping a large part of my hand, but not biting down hard. You can see that in the video below. In some cases, I am presenting my hand flat, and in some I am offering my fingers. He gobbles the hand every time (because I am cuing him to run around and he is excited), but doesn’t hurt me.

He has great bite inhibition in play; his control when gulping treats out of my hand may correlate with that.

Training for Gentle Treat-Taking

There are ways to teach dogs to take treats gently. One is to hold onto the treat if you feel the dog’s teeth, releasing when they use only their lips and tongue. Another, which involves less extinction and negative punishment, is to teach the dog the difference between licking and biting, then put “lick” on cue. I have seen consistent people (i.e., mostly trainers) succeed with these methods. There are also situational tricks like feeding a dog only through a barrier, such as the wires of a crate. I suspect you’d have to do hundreds of reps that way (and put other treat delivery on hiatus) to get the behavior to generalize to other situations.

For us civilians, trying to modify a dog’s treat-taking behavior if we’ve already been giving them food from our hands for a while puts us squarely up against the matching law. The way they take a treat is so easy to reinforce. It’s the last behavior before they swallow the food. So if your pup has been taking treats like a shark for a few weeks and you decide you want to change that, you may already have an uphill battle. You’ll need to be consistent, which is difficult. In how many situations do you give your dog treats? Plus, that consistency can put the dog through an extinction process—”Hey, this used to work to get me food!”—which can frustrate them.

Clara was grabby as a pup, and I made some feeble efforts toward changing her treat-taking behavior. But I was doing a lot of classical conditioning, and getting her comfortable in her environment was more important than protecting my hands. Because if you “withhold” the treat when trying to create a classical pairing, you risk weakening the pairing. Putting a contingency on getting the food is a reasonable step in this process, but we couldn’t do that for a very long time.

There are many variables involved in how feasible and important it is to modify a dog’s treat-taking. But if you teach your dog to take treats gently, you may still get feedback on your dog’s emotional state from how they take the food, but likely in more subtle ways.

“Is the Dog Taking Food?” vs. “How Is the Dog Taking Food?”

The latter is a better question.

I’m not the first to discuss this. But the articles I found focused on sharky treat-taking. None of them mentioned that gentle treat-taking can also be a warning sign of stress or fear. Taking treats gingerly seems like a natural precursor to not taking them at all. Thanks, Zani, for teaching me that.

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Copyright 2024 Eileen Anderson

Can Dogs Hear Sounds at Four Times the Distance Humans Can?

Can Dogs Hear Sounds at Four Times the Distance Humans Can?

A tan dog with black tail and muzzle is lying in front of a fence. Her muzzle is pointed to the sky and she is howling. Next to her, a black and rust colored hound dog is standing and looking at the photographer, tilting her head

Dogs can’t hear all sounds at four times the distance humans can. They can probably hear some sounds at an even greater distance factor than that, compared to humans. But there are other sounds humans and dogs likely hear at about the same distance, and even some that humans can hear at a greater distance than dogs. We know these things because the hearing sensitivity of both humans and dogs has been measured with controlled tests. The data, broken down by frequency and sound intensity, is reported on charts called audiograms. We can use audiograms of humans and dogs to compare our hearing abilities.

“From how far away can you hear this?” is not the correct metric for measuring or comparing hearing.

So where did this common claim about four times the distance come from? You can open just about any popular article about dog hearing and you will see it. It is presented to support the idea that dogs’ hearing is much better than ours, which in many ways is true. But in my experience, there is never a reference for the specific claim.

We can’t make a general rule that compares the hearing of dogs and humans. And there is another problem. Decibels are a logarithmic scale, not linear. So if a sound is four times farther away, this doesn’t mean it is only one-fourth as loud. This counterintuitive relationship between distance and amplitude doesn’t provide evidence about the truth of the claim, one way or another. But it sure removes some of the “wow” factor. It doesn’t have the same kick if you say, “Dogs can hear sounds at 12 decibels lower than humans can!” That’s the decrease in decibels if you quadruple the distance. If we want to check out the “four times the distance” claim, we can compare the audiograms of dogs and humans to see if there is a difference of 12 decibels or more at some frequencies.

Tracking Down the Claim

When I try to find the source of any claim, my first three tools are date-limited internet searches, journal article searches, and book searches.

Internet and journal searches on this question led me back to 2008. The claim appears near the bottom of this article about the domestic dog, for instance, and in plenty others since then. There may be earlier ones online; I stopped looking after I struck gold during a book search. But all the instances of this claim I saw online had one thing in common: there was never a reference for it.

It was Stanley Coren’s book, How Dogs Think, that lead me to the source. He wrote:

I have often read that a dog’s hearing is four times more acute than ours, which is not strictly true. This statement comes from an informal experiment conducted by P. W. B. Joslin, whose research involved monitoring the activities of timber wolves in Algonquin Park.

Coren, 2004, p. 37
A poster with text that says:
"Really, dog world? Wolves again?" There is a head shot photo of a black and rust dog looking dubious, with slight "side-eye" at the photographer.

The Joslin article was easy to find. It’s a fascinating and often cited study of wolf howling. (The PDF is downloadable from the URL.) And here’s the pertinent quote:

The howling of wolves can be heard usually at distances in excess of one mile and on rare occasions as far as four miles… For example, at distances of four miles, when the howling of the whole group of captive wolves at the Wildlife Research Station was barely discernible to me and to my assistants, the wolves responded to my howls which were unquestionably weaker in intensity. 

Joslin, 1967, p. 288

Really, dog world? We’ve done it again? The statement is about wolves, not dogs. And it doesn’t even say “four times as far”! It says that he and his colleagues could barely hear the wolf howls at a distance of four miles, but the wolves could hear his quieter howls back at that same distance. This is a fascinating early observation about wolves and their hearing. It says nothing about the comparative hearing capabilities of dogs and humans. It’s just another thing that tumbled into dog canon and stuck.

Audiograms

We have data comparing the hearing capabilities of dogs and humans. Here is how hearing is actually compared.

There are at least three ways aspects of dogs’ hearing can be tested.

  1. Operant conditioning. Dogs are taught to perform a behavior when they hear a tone (Guérineau et al, 2024). This is similar to the pure-tone test for humans, where we wear headphones and signal whenever we hear a sound.
  2. Respondent conditioning. Dogs learn that a certain tone predicts food, so they begin to drool when they hear the tone. Pitch discrimination has been taught this way (Dworkin, 1935).
  3. The Auditory Brainstem Response (ABR) or Brainstem Auditory Evoked Response (BAER) test. Dogs are given a non-invasive test where electrodes are attached to their heads and tones are played. The test measures brain activity in response to the tones (Scheifele & Clark, 2012).

Note that moving around and measuring the distance at which dogs can hear a sound from a source is not one of these methods.

Hearing is tested at different frequencies and amplitudes because hearing sensitivity for any species varies by both of these factors. When you use one of the above tests (for a human this would be #1 or #3), the results of the responses are compiled into a graph called an audiogram.

I made a fake audiogram, basing it roughly on actual data. I don’t have the rights to actual audiogram images or the data tables, so I created a graph with roughly the right plots on it. If you want to see a real one, check out the audiogram comparing the hearing of five dogs in this good article about animals’ hearing.

Here is my fake one so you can see a crude comparison of human and dog hearing.

The title of this graph image is "Comparison of Approximated dog and Human Audiograms." The x axis is Hertz, ranging from 60 Hz to 30 kHz. The y axis is decibels.

There is a line plotted for human hearing, and a line for dog hearing. They are bowl-shaped: lowest in the middle and high on the sides. This represents that both species can hear frequencies in their mid-range at the lowest decibel levels. The graph also shows that human hearing is more sensitive at low frequencies, and dog hearing is much, much more sensitive at high frequencies.

This is elaborated on in the text following the image.

In audiograms, the lower numbers on the y axis show more sensitive hearing, because they represent the softest decibel levels the individual can hear. So audiograms look kind of upside down to us. The most sensitive hearing is at the bottom of the “bowl,” and both species hear less well at the edges of our ranges.

In the low frequencies on the left of the graph, from 60 to about 200 Hz, we see that human hearing is more sensitive. In the higher frequencies on the right, starting at about 8 kHz, we see that the dog’s hearing is far more sensitive than ours. If you compare the values at 20K there is a difference of more than 60 dB. In that area, dogs may be able to hear something at more than a hundred times the distance we can (under the same conditions). By the way, the distance doesn’t have to be huge and measured in miles. We could be talking about feet or meters.

One more oddity about my kludged graph. It’s neither linear nor does it follow all of the modern conventions of a logarithmic scale. But it’s more of a logarithmic graph in that the numbers on the x axis are not the same value apart. This is important to note because the last four values cover a vastly bigger range than the first four. For example, 8,000–30,000 covers the same horizontal distance on the graph as 6–250. So what the graph doesn’t let us visualize well is how vast the frequency range is where dogs’ hearing is more sensitive. If it were a linear graph, continuing the same horizontal spacing for every 40 Hz that we see between the first two values, it would be more than 60 feet long. And dogs’ hearing would be more sensitive than ours for more than 40 feet of it.

Why “How Far Away Can You Hear This?” Is Not a Good Measure of Hearing

A head profile shot of a white dog with a brown ear and brown ticking. His ears are forward and he is looking at and listening to something intently.

How far a sound propagates (travels) depends on at least four variables:

  1. the amplitude of the sound (how loud it is)
  2. the frequency of the sound (how high or low the pitch is)
  3. the weather (whether it is wet or dry, what the temperature is, whether there is wind)
  4. the environment between the sound and the listener (whether there are barriers between the sound source and the listener that can absorb or block some frequencies, whether there is competing sound)

This means trying to perform comparisons at long distances will never be accurate because the third and fourth variables will always be changing.

Now we know one of the reasons why humans wear headphones for hearing tests and dogs undergo them in small rooms.

If you are interested in how and why sound attenuates as it travels over a distance, check out this video on the inverse square law. It has a great explanation.

Is This Issue Important?

Unlike many of the things I write about that are “wrong on the internet,” this one isn’t crucial, I guess. Dogs do have great hearing at higher frequencies. The statement about four times the distance is sometimes true, and doesn’t harm dogs in the obvious ways so many myths do.

But it doesn’t matter that it can be true sometimes. The point is that we could say “two times the distance” or “nine times the distance” or even “half the distance” and it would still be true sometimes. It’s meaningless. It doesn’t give us the information we need to know. And that information is available. Hence this post.

Copyright 2024 Eileen Anderson

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Credits

  • Photo of Clara howling and Zani tilting her head copyright 2017 Eileen Anderson.
  • Poster “Really, Dog World?” copyright 2024 Eileen Anderson but inspired by a comment by Kate Knows Dogs. They could make a better version, I’m sure.
  • Image of fake audiograms copyright 2024 Eileen Anderson. I’m reiterating that this is an average, an approximation, of several data sets and not the result of actual experiments.
  • Image of Lewis looking and listening copyright 2022 Eileen Anderson.

References

  • Barber, A. L., Wilkinson, A., Ratcliffe, V. F., Guo, K., & Mills, D. S. (2020). A Comparison of Hearing and Auditory Functioning Between Dogs and Humans. Comparative Cognition & Behavior Reviews15.
  • Coren, S. (2004). How dogs think: Understanding the canine mind. Free Press.
  • Dworkin, S. (1935). Alimentary motor conditioning and pitch discrimination in dogs. American Journal of Physiology-Legacy Content112(2), 323-328.
  • Guérineau, C., Broseghini, A., Lõoke, M., Dehesh, G., Mongillo, P., & Marinelli, L. (2024). Determining Hearing Thresholds in Dogs Using the Staircase Method. Veterinary Sciences11(2), 67.
  • Scheifele, P. M., & Clark, J. G. (2012). Electrodiagnostic evaluation of auditory function in the dog. Veterinary Clinics of North America: Small Animal Practice42(6), 1241-1257.
If Your Dog Is Afraid of Fireworks, Contact Your Vet Now

If Your Dog Is Afraid of Fireworks, Contact Your Vet Now

A small black and brown hound stands in a veterinary exam room with her head slightly cocked
“What are we here for this time?”

Every year I post an article that lists last-minute things you can do to help your dog who is afraid of fireworks. We are coming up on Independence Day and Canada Day, and that means bangs and booms. Over the years, I have tweaked my list. I’ll be updating and reposting it in a few days.

But here is an earlier reminder with the most important tip of all.

See your vet about medications (or speak to clinic staff by text or phone if that is an option).

There are new products on the market, as well as several options that have been around for years. Here is what Dr. Lynn Honeckman, veterinary behavior resident, says about the benefits of medications.

Now is the perfect time to add an anti-anxiety medication to your firework-preparation kit. The right medication will help your pet remain calm while not causing significant sedation. It is important to practice trials of medication before the actual holiday so the effect can be properly tested.

There are a variety of medications or combinations that your veterinarian might prescribe. Medications such as Sileo, clonidine, alprazolam, gabapentin, or trazodone are the best to try due to their quick onset of action (typically within an hour) and short duration of effect (4–6 hours).

Medications such as acepromazine should be avoided as they provide sedation without the anti-anxiety effect, and could potentially cause an increase in fear.

Pets who suffer severe fear may need a combination of medications to achieve the appropriate effect, and doses may need to be increased or decreased during the trial phase. Ultimately, there is no reason to allow a pet to suffer from noise phobia. Now is the perfect time to talk with your veterinarian.

Dr. Lynn Honeckman

Sound phobia is a serious medical condition that usually gets worse. Nothing else comes close to the efficacy of medications. The research on music, pressure garments, and supplements shows weak effects at best. The best way to help your dog get through the coming holidays in the U.S. and Canada is to contact your vet for help. Call now.

Bonus Tip: There Is New Evidence to Support Ad Hoc Counterconditioning

I planned to publish a whole post on this topic, but it was taking too long to get it done for this year’s fireworks season. I recommend ad hoc counterconditioning in my other post, and in recent years there has been new evidence of its efficacy.

Ad hoc counterconditioning is counterconditioning without desensitization. It’s the practice of providing appetitive stimuli (usually food or play) after the occurrence of the trigger. In other words, drop great food whenever fireworks go off. But also, feel free to treat for other sudden sounds: door slams, objects dropping on the floor, something popping—any impulse sound.

Dr. Stefanie Riemer has published three papers in the last few years on fireworks fears in dogs. Her bio states:

I am a behavioural biologist and am especially interested in how dogs feel and think. My research interests include emotional expression and social communication in dogs, personality development, noise fears and veterinary fear in dogs as well as the phenomenon of so-called ‘ball junkies’ and possible parallels with behavioural addictions in humans.

Dr. Stefanie Riemer

Her research is fascinating and her papers are very readable and available ungated online. Here’s where to check them out.

Her research also supports the use of anxiolytic medication, so we come full circle to Dr. Honeckman’s words: now is a great time to talk to your veterinarian. And if you can, be ready to drop treats—good ones!

Copyright 2019 Eileen Anderson, edited 2024

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Foam Dog Balls for the Win: A Review

Foam Dog Balls for the Win: A Review

A white dog with brown ears and ticking and a curled tail stands in profile, with his head turned toward the camera. He is holding a blue ball with a bright orange BioThane strap dangling from it

This is an unsolicited review with no affiliate links. I purchased two balls from this company and Lewis and I both think they are great.Shoutout to a company with a great product and customer service.

I’m always looking for sturdy, throwable tug toys for Lewis. I think I saw an ad for these, or perhaps a friend shared them. In any case, the toys at Foam Dog Balls looked perfect.

They have two sizes of balls and a remarkable variety of color combinations (12 ball colors and 4 strap colors that you can mix and match). The larger size is 3.25 inches in diameter and the smaller is 2.75 inches. I believe they are working on an even smaller one as well. I chose a color combo that passed the “dog vision” test and also seemed like it would look good with Mr. Photogenic.

A blue textured ball with a bright orange biothane strap attached

Unfortunately, I guessed the wrong size, and the large ones I ordered were too big for Lewis. I emailed their customer service and got a prompt email response from an actual person (thanks Greg!) with a return authorization number. After I sent the balls back, I got an email saying that rather than issuing a refund and requiring another purchase, they would just send me the smaller size (same price). They did this even though it had been my mistake. This saved me the second shipping costs. It made a big difference to me because I had been waffling about the hassle of sending them back. I’m so glad I did!

I also like their website. Professional, but not glitzy or manipulative. And a miracle: no popups or other annoyances. These characteristics say to me, “Hey, we have a good product and are confident about it. Take a look.”

The Balls

Lewis clearly likes the feel of them. The weight of the ball is just right, and with the long strap, I actually had to be careful not to overthrow it (into my neighbor’s yard). Very different from his Jolly Ball, another favorite but awkward for me to toss. These feel great to throw; the balance is perfect for me. I’m late to the BioThane® party but oh my, do I love the strap!

For people who play with their dogs in and around water—the balls float like bobbers!

I bought two because for a long time I have needed two identical throwables to get one back. But Fetching Boy needed only one. He thinks it’s worth it to bring things back to me, which makes me feel warm and happy. When you have mutts, it’s the holy grail to get a fetcher, and I love it that my dog thinks I’m fun!

Product Comparison

I have a number of varieties of this style of toy. I used to buy the KONG Squeakair balls on a rope for Zani. They are cheaper, but very light weight with nylon ropes that I never want to touch again after the BioThane® straps on Foam Dog Balls. The KONG balls are also fairly easy to rip and can be pulled off the rope. I have a couple of heavier plastic balls on braided handles (as in this header photo). Lewis and I both like them, but one time I threw one and hit him in the eye with the ball end and it obviously hurt! They are heavy and fairly hard rubber or plastic. I have yet more balls and other toys on ropes but Foam Dog Balls hit the Goldilocks spot.

Safety

The company warns, appropriately, that their balls are not chew toys. I could tell that Lewis and Clara were both ready to chew them up, given a chance. So these go in the “for playing with a human only” box. I appreciate the company’s transparency. I recently got ripped off by yet another company that advertised that their toy was for “super chewers” but was immediately destroyed.

Lewis’ Review

I’ll let Lewis show you his response. These clips are from his very first session with the foam ball.

Critique

My goal is always to give a true assessment of the pros and cons of items I write about. But there’s little to criticize here.

I thought of one small thing, but it’s a matter of taste. The packaging is sleek and pricy looking, with a sturdy plastic zipper bag (also BioThane® maybe?) for each toy. They are spending some money on it. The zipper bags are nice enough that you hate to throw them away, but I don’t need individual plastic pouches for dog toys. But maybe they are perfect for some people. I’ll use them for something else. And I have to admit, opening the brightly colored mailer and taking out these sleek bags was fun. The balls, at $16–20 each (depending on occasional discounts), are priced just fine, considering the quality.

Summary

This is a well designed toy that’s a pleasure for both members of the team. Lovely for me to handle and throw, and Lewis basically wants to keep it in his mouth forever, with short breaks to chase it.

Thumbs and paws up!

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Copyright 2024 Eileen Anderson

I Got a Kick Out of You: Twitmyer’s Discovery of Classical Conditioning

I Got a Kick Out of You: Twitmyer’s Discovery of Classical Conditioning

A reflex hammer such as a physician uses. The head is triangular and aqua colored and the handle is silver-colored metal
Reflex hammer

Pavlov was scooped, but nobody noticed.

Most people have heard of Ivan Pavlov and his dogs, and many are aware of the specifics of his discovery. He accidentally conditioned dogs to salivate at the sound of a buzzer, realized what he had done, and explored some of the profound implications. But hardly anyone knows that at the same time, the American Edwin Twitmyer also discovered the conditioned response. His discovery involved a different reflex but was similarly accidental. His research was published in 1902­—a year before Pavlov’s. This is the story of his discovery and the underwhelming response it received.

Studying the Knee Jerk

Edwin Twitmyer, a graduate student in psychology at the University of Pennsylvania, chose to study the human patellar reflex for his doctoral research. By 1900, physiologists knew that there was a lot of variation in the knee jerk response between subjects and even between responses by the same individual. Warren Lombard had determined variations in the knee jerk having to do with time of day, temperature, and barometric pressure (Lombard, 1887).  The physician Ernő Jendrassik discovered a clever way to thwart the attempts of patients to game the reflexive response when the patellar tendon was tapped (Zehr & Stein, 1999).

Twitmyer set out to record multiple observations of the knee jerk under controlled conditions and to define and codify the responses. He noted that “when the patella tendons are struck at exactly the same place with blows of constant force and at regular intervals, no two of the resulting knee jerks are of the same extent” (Twitmyer, 1902, p. 8). He wanted to find out if he could draw conclusions about the variation in the responses and come up with a reasonable definition of a normal range.

Twitmyer had access to a pool of research subjects: other psychology students. He recruited 17 males and began his research. He studied the knee jerk under both “normal” conditions and with various adaptations. He controlled for the variables that Lombard had discovered.

So, where did this variation in responses come from, how far did it normally extend, and how much variation would there be if they kept knocking and knocking and knocking on the subjects’ knees for extended periods? Would there be discoverable patterns? Variations that were predictable through the individuals’ physiology?

A sepia colored photograph of Edwin Twitmyer holding two small terrier-type dogs. He is dressed in a suit with a vest and a hat. Photo circa 1925.
Twitmyer and his dogs

Twitmyer also hoped to find evidence as to whether the knee jerk was a true reflex, a mechanical response to sudden pressure on the patellar tendon, or a combination of the two. He conjectured it was the last of these, and he was correct. The hammer tap stretches the quadriceps muscles in the thigh. This stretching triggers a monosynaptic reflex. The message is sent to the spinal cord, and a return message causes the quadriceps to contract. When the leg is hanging free, this causes the leg to kick.

The purpose of the patellar reflex is not to kick doctors. In normal life, when our feet are on the ground, the patellar reflex helps us balance. That it can be triggered when we are sitting with legs swinging free is a fluke.

Dogs and many other animals have the patellar reflex, too.

Creating Consistent Stimuli and Measurement Systems

Twitmyer set up a mechanical pendulum system in his lab so that the tap of the hammers on the patellar tendons would be uniform. In most experiments, both knees were tapped at once. There was an automated warning bell that warned the subject to prepare for the hammer taps. (Do you see what’s coming?)

Twitmyer set up a mechanical method of measuring the extent of the kicks as well. There were strings tied to both of the subjects’ feet, and these were connected via a pulley to an apparatus that somewhat resembled an analog seismograph with its turning roll of paper and moving pen. Twitmyer noted that the friction of the pens on the paper and the balancing weight on the pulley were minimized, so the resistance added to the kick was negligible.

In a black and white photo from the very early 1900s, a young man sits in a large chair with his feet dangling. A construction in front of him includes a horizontal bar above his knees. Reflex hammers hang from the bar and wires or strings go from the bar assembly to a panel in the wall
Twitmyer’s experiment

Twitmyer kept data on all the responses of the subjects, including one subject who had no response to the tapping hammer at all, ever. Today we would question whether this student had a neurological problem.

He found over the course of 60 experiments that the average knee jerk of his subjects varied from 0–165 mm, and concluded that it was not really possible to assign a “normal” range of motion to it. He examined the subjects’ knee physiology to determine if there were a relationship between it and the extent of the kick and could find no correlation. Ditto for muscle tone. He conjectured that the differences in kick magnitude were probably due more to the “irritability or conductivity, or both, of the nervous structures involved in the knee jerk mechanism” (Twitmyer, 1974, p. 1055). He also studied the swing of the leg after the reflexive kick.

And that would have been the extent of it, except one day the bell rang without the hammer tap. It just so happened that a subject with a very robust kicking reflex was sitting in the apparatus. He kicked. Twitmyer’s discovery of respondent conditioning, like Pavlov’s, was an accident.

Getting a Kick

Here’s how Twitmyer described the incident in his lab and his curiosity about it:

During the adjustment of the apparatus for an earlier group of experiments with one subject (Subject A) a decided kick of both legs was observed to follow a tap of the signal bell occurring without the usual blow of the hammers on the tendons. It was at first believed that the subject had merely voluntarily kicked out the legs, but upon being questioned, he stated that although quite conscious of the movement as it was taking place, it had not been caused by a volitional effort, and further, that the subjective feeling accompanying the movement was similar to the feeling of the movement following the blow on the tendons with the exception that he was quite conscious that the tendons had not been struck.

Two alternatives presented themselves. Either (1) the subject was in error in his introspective observation and had voluntarily moved his legs, or (2) the true knee jerk (or a movement resembling it in appearance) had been produced by a stimulus other than the usual one.

(Twitmyer, 1902, p. 24)

Twitmyer turned his research in that direction. He first performed a series of experiments on the subject who had exhibited the leg kick in apparent response to the bell.  During these experiments, the hammers did not always touch the knee after the sounding of the tone. (They were dropped, then caught, in a maneuver the subject couldn’t see.) The subject did not know when the hammers would touch and when they would not. The subject consistently kicked after the tone, even when the hammers did not drop. Twitmyer ruled out other explanations for the kicking.

Twitmyer then added five more subjects. He got consistent kicks from one other subject and a few kicks from three others. Only one subject failed to kick at all in response to the tone alone in the first round of experiments. After implementing some measures to enhance the possibility of response to the tone alone, all of the subjects were kicking away at the sound of the tone.

Twitmyer noted later in a short journal article in that it took between 150 and 230+ pairings of the bell and the hammer to condition the reflex (Twitmyer, 1902, p. 34). Most of his subjects had different magnitudes of responses from their left and right legs. Interestingly, these differences were maintained in the left and right leg responses to the bell as well.

Making Mischief

But there was one more twist. At least one of the students was secretly trying to suppress the jerk. These were psychology students, after all. Twitmyer had carefully tried to hide the purpose of the experiments where the hammer didn’t always strike, but it must have become fairly obvious. The student was interested and fiddled with his responses, but he wasn’t able to suppress the jerk.

He finally confessed his attempts to Twitmyer, who promptly added it to his dissertation. Some reflexes can be suppressed or circumvented to varying degrees. But in the case of the knee jerk reflex there is a way to prevent most deliberate modifications of the reflex movement by the subject, and Twitmyer was probably aware of that. As previously mentioned, a Hungarian physician named Jendrassik had discovered that asking his patients to clench their teeth and interlock their fingers generally enhanced the magnitude of the patellar reflex and prevented its suppression. Though he doesn’t refer to it by name in his dissertation, Twitmyer was probably familiar with Jendrassik’s maneuver. Twitmyer mentions throughout his dissertation that he required his subjects to “clinch their hands” (Twitmyer, 1902, p. 25), as he put it, as they prepared for the hammer tap. Try as he might, the would-be saboteur couldn’t suppress the reflex while following the instructions to “clinch his hands.”

In a black and white photo circa 1920, a man, presumably a patient, sits in a chair with one pant leg raised to expose his knee and calf. The man is holding his hands at the level of his breastbone and has his fingers laced together. Another man, presumably a physician, applies a reflex hammer to the patient's knee. Interestingly, the patient's feet are flat on the floor.
The Jendrassik maneuver

Twitmyer’s discovery was a milestone of science but wasn’t recognized as such. His thesis was published in 1902, but published by a private company. Pavlov published his research on the conditioned reflex in 1903.

Twitmyer presented his research results at a meeting of the American Psychological Association in 1904, but had an unfortunate place in the schedule. By the time he got to speak, lunch was overdue. Perhaps the audience members were even salivating in anticipation. In any case, the eminent William James, probably in response to his own rumbling stomach, whisked through the possible question period and called for a lunch break. Hardly anyone took notice of Twitmyer’s discovery.

You’d think that triggering the knee jerk reflex without touching the leg would have been viewed with amazement, but no. Although he had a successful career, Twitmyer never performed another experiment along that line of research. Most of us have never heard of Twitmyerian conditioning.

This post was originally published as an article in the IAABC Foundation Journal in 2016. Thank you to Tiro Miller for his excellent editing.

Copyright 2016 Eileen Anderson

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What If My Dog Responds Only When I Have Treats?

What If My Dog Responds Only When I Have Treats?

A woman wearing jeans and a purple shirt kneels in front of a small black and brown hound dog. The dog is crossing her front paws and looking intently at the treat held in the woman's hand
Teaching Zani to cross her paws using targeting, shaping, and luring

This is for people who have started to train their dogs with food. First, good for you! Food is a primary reinforcer, dogs usually love to work for it, it’s handy, and you get a lot of bang for your buck!

If your dog responds only when you have food, nothing is wrong with her. Somewhere along the way, she learned some patterns.

Dogs Are Great Predictors

Here are three patterns of your behavior your dog may have learned.

  • If you try to get rid of your food lure after using it a couple of times, and she doesn’t do the behavior without the lure, you may bring the lure out again.
  • Even if you don’t normally lure, if she hesitates after you give her a cue, you may touch your treat pouch, show her the food, or even give her some.
  • Before any training, you gather up some food, perhaps cut up treats, put them in your pocket or pouch, and go to your usual training place. Dog says, “Yay! This preparation means I get food for doing stuff!” You rarely use food outside of this scenario.

Your clever dog has noted these patterns. One day when you aren’t wearing your treat pouch and you haven’t set up for training, you cue her to perform a behavior. She looks blankly at you and doesn’t move. You don’t have any food to show her, and she continues to stay where she is.

What happened?

She is not being stubborn. She’s not cheating. You have accidentally made “visible food” or “presence of food” an antecedent to the behavior. Food is part of the cue. So when the food is not there, the cue is not complete.

You can fix this.

Isn’t a Cue Just One Thing Like a Word or a Hand Signal?

Most cues have more components than we realize.

A tan dog with a black tail and ears lies on a purple mat. She is stretching to get a treat a woman is handing her at floor level.
Luring Clara into a down. It was easy because the yoga mat is also a cue for lying down.

What happens if you pick up your dog’s bowl or gather up food toys at a time close to when you normally feed her? She gets excited, right? A meal is coming.

But what if you pick up the same bowl or food toys some other time, not close to a normal mealtime? She may notice or even pay close attention. But she probably won’t leap up, ready to eat. That’s because, besides the bowl and food toys, another part of the cue for “mealtime coming” is the time of day.

The problem is that most of us don’t realize all the things the dog has noticed that come together to create her cues. And if we accidentally leave some of them out, she may not respond. It’s our job either to see that all the components are present, or teach the dog what is and is not important. We’re going to do the latter to fix this problem

A Three-Part Plan

Here’s how you can fix the “dog doesn’t respond when food isn’t present” problem.

You need to show the dog what doesn’t predict food: your treat bag or the smell of food in your pocket, the sight of food, training session preparations, time of day, etc. And you need to show the dog what does predict the opportunity for food: your deliberate cue for a behavior. So here are the parts of the process.

  1. Clean up training mechanics by properly timing the food delivery and fading lures quickly.
  2. Show the dog that certain stimuli (e.g. the presence of a treat pouch) do not predict reinforcement on their own. (This process is called an extinction trial.)
  3. Clarify the cue. We do this by showing the dog there is reinforcement available for performing the behavior after the correct cue, no matter the other conditions.

1. Clean Up Your Mechanics

Set up a camera and video your training. What are we looking for? Cleaning up mechanics is a big topic. What we want is:

  1. Human delivers cue.
  2. Dog does behavior.
  3. Human marks with a clicker or some other marker.
  4. Human reaches for food.
  5. Human gives food to dog in one way or another.
A white dog with a brown ear and some brown speckles is sitting in front of a standing woman. We see the woman only from the waist down. The dog is looking eagerly at her left hand, which is reaching into her pants pocke.
Thanks, Lewis, for telling the world I keep food in my left pocket and that I often reach for it just a little too early

So when you watch the video of yourself, make sure you don’t reach for the food or even twitch your hand toward the food until you reach #4. Don’t let your hand drift toward your treat bag as you say the cue or start reaching as the dog does the behavior or as you deliver your marker. That hand stays still until after you deliver your marker, if you use one, or until the correct behavior is in progress if you don’t.

Practice without, then with your dog until your mechanics are clean.

Luring is another common way food can become the wrong kind of predictor. If you use a food lure to get a behavior, you need to stop using it very early in the game. This is called “fading the lure.” Here are two excellent videos by Emily Larlham about that.

The following video focuses on fading the lure.

Dog Training Tutorial: Fading a Lure (while teaching SPIN)

This next video is about fading a lure and adding a cue. What I really want you to see are Emily’s excellent mechanics. Watch her right hand starting at about 3:00. She keeps both her clicker and food in that hand. See how it stays stock still as she uses it to click, and doesn’t move until the dog has done the behavior.

DEMO of removing a LURE and adding a VERBAL CUE

Big thanks to Emily Larlham for having an excellent video on virtually every positive reinforcement training topic.

2. Break the Prediction with Extinction Trials

For a week or two, a couple of times a day, do what you normally do to prepare for a training session, but don’t have one. Cut up food and put it in your pocket or fill up your treat bag. Then continue your business for a while. Work at your computer, do the dishes, work in your yard; do anything but train your dog. When they come and “ask” you about it, acknowledge them, be sweet to them, but do not give them food. This is an extinction process and can be hard on the learner.

A woman is leaning over a white dog with a brown ear and some brown speckles. She is luring the dog with a treat in her hand and the dog is turning in a circle.
Luring Lewis into a spin

If there are other indicators you are about to train, such as gathering gear or going to a certain room, you can decouple them too. Your dog has likely learned them.

You are teaching your dog that when you work with dog food or carry it around, it means nothing in particular. Food is background noise. (But you can still have regular training sessions during this time that you set up in your usual way.)

A trainer friend told me her dogs stopped noticing whether she had her treat bag on or off after she became a professional trainer. Suddenly she was coming and going with the treat bag on, and it didn’t mean anything anymore.

Make yourself a schedule for these times you will wear a treat bag or do other predictive behaviors. Choose different times of day so the dog doesn’t learn a pattern. (They are so good at that!)

Most of us would agree that a dog who thinks they are about to have access to food, then doesn’t, may feel the doggie equivalent of disappointment.

To soften the blow, plan for your first steps to happen when training is unlikely, i.e., when there are cues for competing activities. Examples of such times would be:

  • right after you have finished training
  • when about to play with your dog with a toy (get the toy first, and make sure no food can fall out of your treat bag!)
  • when going for a walk or a ride in the car to somewhere fun (if you don’t normally use food)
  • when getting ready for bed
  • during human meals, but only if you never feed your dog from the table or shortly after

OK, you haven’t fixed the problem, but you’ve laid the groundwork.

3. Food Can Come from Anywhere

This last essential step is a fun exercise, and is a good thing to teach your dog even if you don’t have problems with them expecting to see the food.

  1. Have some treats on your person in whatever way is normal for you. Usually, this will be in a pouch or a pocket. Also, have some of the same food in a jar a few steps away (positioned so the dog can’t help himself).
  2. Ask your dog for a behavior. After the dog performs the behavior, use a marker if you normally do (clicker or verbal marker). Step to the jar (quickly) and reinforce from the treats in the jar. Do not give your dog food from your pocket or pouch.
  3. Do this in different parts of your house (location can be a big predictor of a training session, too, so mix it up!), but at first, always have the jar very close.
  4. Gradually reduce the number of treats you have on your person. If you consistently get treats from the jar, carrying food becomes less important. Work your way in steps to an empty, clean treat pouch, then no pouch. Same with pockets: work toward empty pockets in freshly washed clothes. Of course, dogs can smell food on clothes that have been washed, but they can also tell the difference between fresh, present food and the food molecules that remain after washing.
  5. When your dog responds reliably to your cues when you are not carrying food, start to move farther away from the jar before you cue a behavior. The dog still has a visible “food cue” in the picture, so we want to remove that one, too. So start getting away. Three steps. Five steps. Do this gradually, over several sessions. Finally, the jar is around a corner. Or in a closed cupboard. At the other end of the house. Just inside your back door—and you give the cue outside. Our goal is to teach the dog their behavior makes food appear, whether or not they see the food beforehand.

You can even get fancy and make it so your dog usually gets a better reinforcer when you aren’t carrying food.

After the steps above, you can do most of your training sessions like you always have. But be conscious of your mechanics. And be sure to keep mixing in “remote” treats to keep your dog believing that food cam come from anywhere.. You’ll find it handy to continue to have little caches of food around the house.

Note: This Is Not the Time To “Fade” Treats!

Even if you plan to go to thinner reinforcement schedules and not give your dog a treat after each correct behavior, you should continue to do that while doing the above procedure. If “previewing” food has accidentally become part of the cue for all behaviors, this is a training mechanics error. It’s not a reinforcement schedule issue. Fix your mechanics first. Cleaning up your antecedent arrangement (food being too prominent before the behavior) is separate from thinning a reinforcement schedule (how often food is delivered after the behavior).

You can check out these two posts on reinforcement schedules.

High-Value Dry Foods

A tannish-yellow ceramic treat jar that has the word "WILD" scored into the clay and painted in black
Ceramic treat jar

Here are some of the foods I use in jars around the house. They are chosen so I don’t have to worry about spoilage.

  • Dehydrated lamb or beef lung
  • K9 Granola Factory treats
  • American Journey Oven Baked Dog Treats
  • Stella and Chewy’s dehydrated raw foods
  • Lotus oven baked dry food

I also use some other foods with a shorter shelf life for high-value treats. I make sure not to leave them out too long.

Credit for This Idea

Leaving food in containers around the house is not a new or uncommon idea! Neither is the above method for teaching a dog that food can appear from multiple sources. I first read of this practice in two different places: in the old ClickerSolutions Yahoo group, I believe posted by Greta Kaplan, and in Sue Ailsby’s Training Levels. It’s not anybody’s unique system, though. It follows the principles of graduated change, stimulus control, and generalization in behavior science.

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Copyright 2024 Eileen Anderson

How to Check a Dog’s Environment for Ultrasound

How to Check a Dog’s Environment for Ultrasound

A scientific diagram on a black background with time on the x axis and frequency on the y axis. The frequency range extends to 70,000 Hz. There are blue and green areas from 50 to about 3,000 Hz, representing sounds in that range. There are faint, ascending lines in the range at and above 30,000 Hz, representing constant sounds in that range that are rising in pitch.

How can I tell if there is high-frequency sound in my house or yard that could bother my dog?

To detect possible ultrasound in your home, you need two things:

  1. a specialty ultrasonic microphone that can sense frequencies higher than 20,000 Hz and connect to a smartphone or computer; and
  2. an application that can record the sound, do frequency spectrum analysis, and bring the sound into human hearing range.
Continue reading “How to Check a Dog’s Environment for Ultrasound”
Desensitizing a Dog to High-Pitched Beeps: Part 2 of 2

Desensitizing a Dog to High-Pitched Beeps: Part 2 of 2

Closeup of the head of a black and rust colored hound mix. She has drop ears, which are held a little forward. She is looking forward at something.
This is a still from a sound exposure

Please read Part 1 of this two-part series before this one, Part 2!

Part 2 recounts an informal case study I did when I applied the concepts I discussed in Part 1. To desensitize and countercondition my dog Zani to electronic beeps, I started with a low frequency that didn’t scare her and worked up to the original frequency. I did this rather than starting with a quieter beep since the beeps were already quiet and still scared her. I also adjusted the duration as part of the process.

Case Study: Successful DS/CC Using Frequency and Duration to Modify the Trigger Sound

Continue reading “Desensitizing a Dog to High-Pitched Beeps: Part 2 of 2”
Desensitizing a Dog to High-Pitched Beeps—Part 1 of 2

Desensitizing a Dog to High-Pitched Beeps—Part 1 of 2

A small black and rust hound mix sits on some colored mats. She is looking in the direction of the camera and her head is tilted to one side. She is listening to a sound that is being played over a speaker.
This is a still from a sound exposure

I am long overdue to write about this. I successfully desensitized and counterconditioned my clinically sound phobic dog, Zani, to electronic beeps using a novel, but evidence-based method. Here are some concepts and practices that could be helpful to others who are working with such dogs.

This is Part 1 of a two-part series. Please read this one before checking out Part 2.

It’s Not Always about Volume

If I could convey one thing to people who want to desensitize their dogs to sounds other than low-pitched booms and bangs, it would be this: Think beyond the volume control.

Continue reading “Desensitizing a Dog to High-Pitched Beeps—Part 1 of 2”
Putting a Dog’s Harness on without Getting Bloody Arms: Adjusting Antecedents

Putting a Dog’s Harness on without Getting Bloody Arms: Adjusting Antecedents

A woman and a brown and white dog are at the end of a hall next to a piano bench. The dog is standing on his hind legs with his front feet on the bench. The woman, in a red shirt and gray cap, is leaning over the dog and touching his leg near the shoulder.
I’m teaching Lewis to get used to body handling in the “paws up” position

I remember how magical it was, the first time I saw someone’s dog come running and happily thrust their head into their harness, then stand still for the buckling up. I was astonished that a dog could learn to do that. Yeah, it was a long time ago.

Since then, I’ve taught a good handful of dogs to be happy with wearing a harness and to help me put it on them. This includes a couple of challenging dogs who were worried at first about wearing gear.

Continue reading “Putting a Dog’s Harness on without Getting Bloody Arms: Adjusting Antecedents”
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